Sistema HLB para cremas y lociones

[Azimut]

Algunos valores más de esta página:
http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_liqui ... cipes.html
Oil in Water vs. Water in Oil
There are two types of emulsions: oil in water (o/w) AND water in oil (w/o).
The chief difference in oil in water vs. water in oil emulsions is the type of emulsifying agent. When you are making an oil in water emulsion, you must force the oil into the water. When you are making a water in oil emulsion, you must force the water into the oil. When you make an oil in water emulsion, the oil is made into small droplets which is spread throughout the water. In this case, you would add the oil to the water. The reverse is true for water in oil emulsions.
The function of the emulsifying agent is to spread the droplets, and to ensure the droplets stay spread out. The type of emulsion is controlled by the HLB value (hydrophilic lipophyllic balance) of the emulsifying agent. This is basically the ratio of the weight of the molecule which is hydrophilic (water loving) to the weight that is lipophyllic (oil loving). Although each fixed oil has a specific HLB requirement for it to emulsify, the better systems provide adequate emulsifying activity.
Below is a list of HLB values and their corresponding applications:
HLB VALUES APPLICATION
1-3 Antifoaming agents
3-6 Emulsifying agents (w/o emulsions)
7-9 Wetting agents
8-18 Emulsifying agents (o/w emulsions)
13-16 Detergents
16-18 Solubilizing agents

The following is a list of commonly used emulsifying agents, both synthetic and natural.
Commercial NameChemical Name HLB Value
AcaciaAcacia 12.0
Glyceryl monostearateGlyceryl monostearate 3.8
Methocel 15 cpsMethylcellulose 10.5
Parmagel BGelatin 9.8
Liquid SoapPotassium soap 20.0
Cold Process SoapSodium soap 18.0
TragacanthTragacanth 13.2
XanthanXanthan 12.5
Dispersing Sunflower OilSunflower Glycerides PEG-10 7.5
The Pros & Cons of Emulsion Types
W/O emulsions have a similar structure to the skin and are very skin compatible. They tend to be creams. Their chief disadvantage is that they break and soak in slowly. They may also have a slightly greasy feel. The greasiness can be alleviated, to some extent, by using a low molecular chain oil, such as fractionated coconut or a liquid wax, such as jojoba or isopropyl myristate. Fragrances are readily apparent, but can dissipate quickly. O/W emulsions break easily and have a better skin feel. One of their chief disadvantages is their runniness. They usually require thickening agents. They also have fewer problems with rancidity of the fixed oils because the fixed oils are better protected from oxidation than W/O emulsions. Fragrances are better held in O/W emulsions, though they may seem faint before applying to the skin. If you've made it this far through these pages, congratulations! We applaude your interest in making lotions properly and encourage you to experiment and be creative. Niche markets are everywhere, and you may become the next great lotion entrepeneur. For more information, please read our article on HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance).

[Azimut]

Por cierto Pitusani: ¿Como va esa maravillosa calculadora? Sería el mejor regalo de reyes mendrulandrés para todos sus habitantes.

[zuccaronew]

Que buena informacion....

Me paso al caso practico... Si yo tengo slo un emulsionante qeu es glicol estearato eso significa q solo podre hacer cremas con bajos porcentajes de oleo, tanto asi qeu no supere el 2,9 hbl, es asi???
O tambien utilizar aceites con bajo hbl para que no se dispare.

Logico que si quiero hacer cremas diferentes tengo q cambiar de emulsionante.

La verdad que es complicado, pero quien dijo que seria facil?? jejejejjee
Abrazos para todos

[Azimut]

Dos de HLB y sus características:

http://www.texasnaturalsupply.com/
Lecithin (Liquid)
SKU LEC
INCI: Lecithin
Non-Genetically Engineered Lecithin
Lecithin is derived from either egg yokes, soybeans and corn. It has a softening and soothing effect on the skin as a natural antioxidant and emollient.
Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Lecithin is made up of many different phospholipids, which occur naturally and are emulsifiers. Phospholipids are a principal component of human cell membranes. Their structures allow special protein molecules to selectively transport ions through membranes. Phospholipids look like triglycerides except that one of the fatty acid chains is substituted by the phosphor compound, phosphate ester. The phosphor compound increases the water affinity of glyceride, giving it the ability to work as an emulsifier.
Lecithin is a super skin restorative agent and moisturizer. It has the ability to penetrate the epidermis and carry substances to the right cell level. They also can form cell-like structures called liposomes. A liposome are formed when a group of phospholipids are placed on the skin; they spontaneously arrange themselves to match their water loving heads together and their oil loving tails together to form a microscopic sphere. These spheres are similar in construction to an actual cell membrane. They are then able to pass through the epidermis and act as a carrier of substances that attach themselves.
Phospholipids in studies were found to be hygroscopic, which means they attract water from the surrounding air and hold hydration in place. They help increase hydration levels in the skin without modifying the water loss rate of the skin. Phosphatidylcholine, which is one component of lecithin has a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acid chains, 70% linoleic acid and 6% linolenic acid. Which in Europe is referred to as Vitamin F. Vitamin F has been found to be critical for fat metabolism and for the release of fat from fatty tissues. A recent German study concluded that linoleic acid one of the most valuable ingredients in cosmetics. The study found that a shortage in linoleic acid increased acne formation. Also they found that the water loss form skin is inversely proportional to the linoleic acid content of the skin.
Lecithin as an emulsifier makes a creamy lotion or very dense cream. It takes a little practice to get it to perform to meet your specifications but it holds emulsions together well. It also works well in beeswax/borax/boric acid combinations. It should be kept to no more than 3% of the formula for ease of use.
HLB = 4.0

Wax - Emulsifying
SKU EMFW
INCI: Emulsifying Wax NF.

Ingredients: Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol blend (Plant sourced/vegetable derived)
Emulsifying Wax is an easy to use, effective emulsifier for creams and lotions (oil in water type- o/w). These creamy white pastilles are melted in the oil phase. They are non-ionic and produce stable emulsions, even at a pH of 13. E-wax pastilles are a pleasure to work with.They have a pleasant light scent, yet do not add any odor to your formula. You can also increase the thickness of a formula with a slightly higher percentage, eliminating the need for use of additional ingredients. E-wax works excellently as the sole emulsifier, thickener and stabilizer in an emulsion. It is compatible with other ingredients like stearic acid or cetyl alcohol though, so it can be used in combination if desired.
pH: 5.5 - 7.0
Melting point: 50-54°C
Hydroxyl value: 178-192
Iodine value: 3.5
Fatty alcohol assay; stearyl(C18)/cetyl(C16)
SAP value: 14.0
Usage rate should be roughly 10 - 20% of the oil phase by weight in lotions and creams. Can be used at 2 - 25%.
HLB = 15
A fatty alcohol it is an alcohol, which is derived from a fat source. It does not behave like a 'real alcohol' like ethanol and is not drying to the skin. Fatty alcohols are derived from coconut oil and palm oil. Cetyl alcohol is made by heating coconut oil with a strong base like Sodium hydroxide (Lye). This process is the same process used to make soap (saponification). The differences between cetyl, stearyl and cetostearyl alcohol Cetyl and Stearyl alcohol are very little. Stearyl alcohol is a slightly longer version of cetyl alcohol having two additional carbons (Cetyl has 16 carbons while Stearyl has 18). Cetostearyl alcohol is simply a combination of cetyl and stearyl alcohol.

[cuchita]

Gracias Azimut, le echaré un vistazo a fondo

[Pitusani]

Hola
Siento no haber dado señales de vida, pero he estado muy liada y no he podido entrar en el foro. Ahora que parece que tengo más tiempo, os prometo que pronto tendré la calculadora. La tengo prácticamente hecha, me falta algunos pequeños retoques y las instrucciones de uso.
Besos

[elblogdeazu]

me lo guardo para cuando sepa entenderlo

[Azimut]

... os prometo que pronto tendré la calculadora. La tengo prácticamente hecha, me falta algunos pequeños retoques y las instrucciones de uso.

!Vivaaaaaaaa¡ Te vamos a llevar en volandas, Pitusani. Por supuesto te encomendamos a Santa Jabonia (que tuvo a bien descubrirnos Jabonosa) para que tengas todo el tiempo necesario y otro poco de más.

[lofer]

http://translate.google.es/translate?hl ... 3FID%3Dhlb

[Azimut]

Lofer te debemos un monumento.
A los moderadores un ruego: ¿Se podría poner esta calculadora en algún apartado "fijo" para que no desaparezca y esté a vista siempre?